UP THE GARDEN PATH

DISCOVER (AND TASTE!) WHAT’S GROWING IN THE GARDENS AT ONE OF UBUD’S MOST FRUITFUL FIVE-STAR RESORTS.

The award-winning Hanging Gardens Ubud resort has recently undergone a major revamp with facility upgrades, new independent management, and the fresh face of Chef Adriano Ricco bringing new culinary concepts and menus to the table. The dual-level restaurant, spa and 38 pool villas and suites come dramatically terraced (gravity-defi ant on stilts) on a 45-degree angled hillside running down to the Ayung River. All are beautifully camoufl aged amongst the natural rainforest and serviced by two resort funiculars, thankfully! So that’s why this boutique luxury resort, secluded in north Ubud and further downstream from Sayan’s cliff-perching resorts, is named ‘Hanging Gardens.’

JUNGLE DINNER

It is a relatively long drive to the Hanging Gardens Ubud from the bustling Kuta and Seminyak areas but well worth it for the stupendous views alone, including the journey itself – bucolic splendor personifi ed. Be sure to arrive early for pre-dinner sunset sundowners and the dusk jungle sounds, preferably seated on the newly-expanded outer deck located on the lower level of the timber thatched stilt restaurant that rests above the twin-level infi nity pool.

The much-lauded pool, which dangles suspended over the rain-forested ravine, is so spectacular that it was voted “World’s Best Swimming Pool” by Condé Nast Traveler and TripAdvisor. Proceed upstairs to the open-sided dining room – a charming “fine dining meets Balinese rustic” – from where directly opposite, on the other side of the ravine, the Penataran Dalem Segara temple hides within the jungle.

If your senses aren’t already dazzled enough, then there’s the cuisine. Since the Brazilian chef arrived this year, the restaurant places more emphasis on increased sustainability and fresh, healthy cuisine with wellness leanings, albeit absolutely satisfying discerning gourmet diners
(and fussy kids!).

This is possible by way of the estate’s abundant organic gardens, which like the rest of the property cling to the slopes for dear life, and are landscaped to freely follow the land contours down to the riverbanks.

PICK OF THE CROP

Working closely with the head gardener (his chief adviser and experienced organic farmer), Chef Adriano cultivates as much organic produce, spices and herbs as possible for his menus, adapting dishes to what is readily available.

These borderless gardens continually expand, but currently yield a vast array including avocadoes, vanilla, cinnamon, star fruit, coconut, coffee beans, lemongrass, cherry tomatoes, lollorosso, passion fruit, pandan, kaffir and curry leaves, jackfruit, ginger and basil varieties and more. In Bali, Chef Adriano is inspired by what grows around him, but hardly culture-shocked like other chefs.

“Brazil and Bali are on roughly the same latitude with similarities in climate and produce, so I can relate to the tropical ingredients here. Garden-grown shallots, garlic, ginger and chilies are my prime base for stocks, sauces and numerous dishes, and are familiar territory,” he explained.

The chef’s kitchen philosophy is to use fresh and natural homemade products, to reduce the use of imported goods, and where possible to buy local and organic – from slipper lobster to quality chocolate to artisan cheeses.

Practically self-suffi cient on micro greens and herbs, before dinner starts Chef Adriano shows me a basket of just-picked herbs that he is using in the kitchen, but laments, “I wish we could grow everything cooked in the kitchen, but it’s impossible.” Still, additional quality organic produce originates from premium island suppliers.

NEW TWISTS

One of the ‘Best Chefs of America 2013,’ Chef Adriano comes globally experienced, Japanese-infl uenced with classic French and Italian training. Here, his “contemporary fusion” cuisine with local, Asian and Western dishes carries strong focus on quality ingredients, with a play on flavors and textures.

Some dishes feature innovative twists on old classics – self-confessed signatures such as starter Hamachi Ceviche (Rp. 165,000) with fresh local Hamachi fish blended with green apples and estate-grown herbs, red onions, chilies and lime, topped with Siberian caviar and served in a bowl of ice; a piquant Purple Sweet Potato Samosa with curry leaf spices and house-made yoghurt dip, and the delicately flavored Basil and Lemongrass Panna Cotta (Rp. 125,000) with celery citrus confit and leek tuille – unusual but divine.

His Duck Ragout with homemade potato gnocchi and parmesan (Rp. 195,000) features succulent Balinese duck marinated in local spices rubbed with orange slices, and accented with shallots, fennel, local palm sugar and pink salt. Also recommended is the wickedly exotic Passion Fruit Souffl é with Mango Sorbet, the crispy garden salads and a selection of Indonesian favorites.

Even the beverages are inspired by garden produce and what’s seasonally available, experimenting with home-grown fruits and edible flowers, spices and herbs. Try singular, refreshing cocktails made
from basil, lemongrass or tamarind, or Hibiscus flower-vodka infusions to round off your very special and sublime culinary journey.

ALTERNATIVELY…

The chef can organize tailor-made gourmet dinners such as “Romance under the Stars” – a floating dinner with champagne served on a central stone island in the lower pool. But for a truly magical experience, dine in private at the temple opposite, exquisitely illuminated and decorated and served by a chef, butler and live cooking stations (going back down the valley later by guided lanterns!).

You can also opt for a leisurely lunch (dishes from Rp. 115,000) and later indulge in the renovated spa that again emphasizes wellness and nature. Fresh garden ingredients are used in treatments, followed by health-giving spa cuisine at the open-air River Café, just beside the river.

Hanging Gardens Ubud
Desa Buahan, Gianyar
(361) 982-700
www.hanginggardensubud.com

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